I would like to know what others here feel would be the best value for a thermal imaging device at $2000 or less. Pros and cons of the products? Flir seems to be the leader, but I haven't seen anything by them in that price range. Let the comments begin!

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I have a client that got bumped down from a single wrap to toenail based on my wind mit.

Truss had one strap straight up with 2 nails only.

If you or anyone you know help folks out with problems like this send me your info and what you do by email. Guy would need someone to find out what house needs. You would have to check every truss. then give prive to do what he wants. I do not know difference in discounts between clip and wrap, double wrap etc.

Not my cup of tea.

Send me a regular email if you want it. GUy called a couple of hours ago it is 12:20pm EST

On your 1000th post....

Thank you Tom, The wealth of information as well as the camaraderie of my colleagues here at InterNachi has made this all possible. Looking forward to my next 1000.

Here are a few shots from my last inspection. That's a solar thermal (hot water) system. The black tank is a diesel fuel tank from a truck, which is supported by part of an old peddle sewing machine frame. Lower left is the porcelain and steel uplift preventer. I think the seller liked to sit up there and listen to music while he re-read his old love letters.
It was the back up for the water heater, which didn't have a TPR, but it did have a two-story PVC disharge pipe. Obviously the installer was not thinking clearly or he would have terminated the discharge pipe into the diesel tank, increasing the efficiency of the hot water system.

The home had no hot water at the time of the inspection although there were three people living there.

And just to make triply sure they got electricity, the home had three meters. It's legal too. According to the architect who came along for the inspection, each of those three cables has both an energized conductor and a neutral in it. No ground for the meters (or service) though.

Just like every other home in this neighborhood, water was supplied by the city... two days a week. It filled an underground cistern. A pump moved water up into a tank on the roof and all plumbing fixtures were gravity-fed. Very, very common here. Didn't measure but water pressure must have been about 5-10 PSI.

Mosquitoes are bad here but I kill them with a battery-powered electric tennis racquet with steel strings. I eat more mangoes any man ever seen, hey, hey...
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Please take a moment to vote for your Best Defect Picture for June submitted by our Members.

#1


House from a flipper had an odd bump in plastered walls, looks like they plastered over live knob and tube wiring? There were 3 discovered in this home.



#2

Foundation is being kept from collapsing by a horizontal telepost and a 2 x 4 between the chimney and the foundation wall. Foundation is still moving which in turn crumbled the chimney. This was allowing water into the basement and the only 'fresh' air in the home was a hole they had cut into the furnace duct which circulated the musty air from the basement through the whole house. I know the smell alone would win me some kind of prize. But they had thrown a couple of air fresheners in the furnace to help with the smell.





#3

Dryer vent in garage with some type of pantyhose or leggings attached as a filter, instead of venting to the outside of home. Very interesting when dryer is turned on as shown.



#4

Now this is how to stop a vent flashing leak. If exterior sealing doesn't work then just caulk from the inside. That should do it.



#5

Here is the pic...








#6

This home was built in 1895 and the complete roof was burned off back in the 60'es. I still don't understand that after doing all that work they didn't replace all this burnt lumber.



#7

The bathroom sink didn't drain too enthusiastically; I wonder why???



#8

Another day, another remodel.



#9
Perhaps a keyhole saw is in order...

Ooops - double post - sorry.

While inspecting a 2007 home I tested the finished portion of a basement and found moisture readings up to 18% at the corner of the lower wall along the trim. The drywall registered up to 16% moisture and the interior wall was up to 13% moisture. Relative humidity was over 85 and we had recent rain.
Is this a typical reading? Or, should it be further evaluated?
No humidifier was present. No A/C running...
Thanks, Bill O

Business is booming!!!
We're booked out 6-7 days in advance.
Our Realtors are extending inspection contingency periods to 10 days instead of the normal 5 days to give us a chance to get the inspections completed.

Home built in 1987, all the ends looked spliced with what looks like a 2x6 to extend the soffits. Is this allowed?
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Attachment 66172
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What's the opinion of "Off center installed garage door openers on double width doors"? There are many articles on-line regarding this, and I believe that if the door were perfectly balanced this would be okay. From an inspectors point of view, what should our opinions be?

Stuart Tick

TALLAHASSEE — Florida Gov. Rick Scott — and other top state officials — quickly distanced themselves last month from a controversial deal approved by Citizens Property Insurance Corp. to shift thousands of homeowner policies to a start-up insurance company.

http://www.gainesville.com/article/2...insurance-deal

I am having trouble finding work.. Can anyone give me some advise on getting more inspections. Is marketing to realtors the only way? Thank you ..Ralph

Concrete tile roof - 15 years old - see the sag over the center of the garage? Header over the door drops about 1 1/2" at middle - thinking this is the cause ...from inside, trusses are intact.

Tiles are laid on battens only. There is no decking or underlayment. Not sure if this is correct.

See photo of the "coated cardboard" panels underneath the tiles. Many of these are cupping at the the seam overlap. Heat maybe? Or possibly moisture/humidity or leakage?

Any thoughts?
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I ran across this yesterday and while it is not very common here I think i know what it is. For some reason I keep questioning myself and need some insight.
Home is 6 years old on public sewer system and has a walk out basement with one bathroom in the basement.
Am I looking at a sewage pump in basement pumping to a grinder pump outside and then it goes into the public sewer? The alarm system in the other pics is in case of system failure?

Attachment 66161
Attached Files Alarm.pdf (205.7 KB)

Jim Kirk correctly disobeyed his commander's orders, refused to murder Kahn, and instead captured him alive to bring him back for trial.

This seemed as appropriate a place as any to post this inquiry- apologies if thats not the case

Let me preface this by saying, this is my first online/distance education, so my main "educational" point of reference, is my brick-and-mortar college education 10 years ago. Each class had a course code listed visibly on the curriculum. ES101, ES102 etc.

I am currently just a few days into the student member program, and took a step back to glance further ahead at the many courses readily available here.
I acknowledge the fact so many topics and issues are inter-related, so structuring the exact path of education is likely more than challenging.
As a PA resident, the absence of a licensing board eliminates the state-specific requirements. So my "curriculum" only lists 12 required courses, followed by dozens of "optional" courses. (which I intend to take full advantage of)

My first question: Are these required courses chronological? As in, I should begin with the first listed, and work my way down the list.

I ask, because I am curious if it is counterproductive to create a more "personalized" course of training.
For example, IMO, going into the learning stage of this, I would suspect it to be in my benefit, to review topics in the same progression as per say an actual inspection would occur.
..arrive on site, begin exterior inspection, head up to the roof, etc..

However, the "Roof Inspection" course, is 3 removed from the last required course in my curriculum.

Another, perhaps better example- I'm currently a portion of the way into "Attic, Insulation, Ventilation, and Interior".
I considered breaking away from this course momentarily, to take the "Inspection of Crawlspaces" course. Assuming this smaller course, would benefit in my progression of the larger, previously started "Attic.." course.

I suppose the bottom line, do any courses have prerequisites for others, so on and so forth. Having a background in general contracting, I know many of my strong areas, and the areas I'll need to place extra focus on. But I want to ensure I don't make this more difficult than it has be, or make the progression less natural.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions and feedback - I greatly appreciate it!